It's Friday, Let's Have a Little Fun

Celtic Dreams looks like a beautiful sweater.

My knitting tip: finish as you go, weave in ends, block and sew up seams so its not such a big process once the knitting is done.

My tip for getting some knitting done when you aren't as in love with the project anymore: Sit down and pull a bunch of yarn off the ball. You just knit until you finish that bit. But I usually get into it and keep going. I got it from someone in blogland, though I can't remember who.

My tip is to pull the yarn a little more firmly than usual after the first stitch of each row to help your edges nice and even (especially during stocking stitch).

This is more of an organizational tip: I"m always printing out patterns I want to make someday. To make it easier to find patterns when I want to start a new project, I put them in a binder with dividers (socks, wraps, etc.) but ALSO keep a set of lists at the front for "fingering projects," "worsted projects" etc. And when I get a new Interweave or other mag, I add potential projects to the gauge list as well. That way, when the cascade 220 is burning a hole in my stash, I can quickly look to see what best suits it.

my tip, if you don't love the yarn when you purchase you aren't going to like knitting with it. All my best projects and the ones that people really wanted are the ones I loved and wanted to keep all to myself

Tip: I keep a Microsoft Spreadsheet list knitting magazines I own and in the same row as the magazine I list which patterns in the magazine I want to someday knit.
When I read a blog entry that mentions a cute pattern in such and such an issue I just fire up my spreadsheet and see if I have that magazine.
Oh, and at the bottom of the spreadsheet I keep a wish list of backissues I would like to someday purchase and why

Another tip: I own many dangly beaded stitch markers that are fun to use and almost can be considered knitting 'jewlery'. However, I have found that when I'm lace knitting my yarn seems to catch on everything: row counters, stitch markers etc. So to help with that problem I tie little markers made from scraps of sock yarn or lace yarn. My yarn doesn't catch on them and if one slips off the needles it doesn't fall into the couch cushion - it sticks to the knitting. No more looking for dropped stitch markers.
Using yarn markers isn't a new idea - but I used to think they were for the people who didn't want to make or spend money for the fancy ones. For me they now have a purpose: lace knitting.

Great idea! My tip for getting out of a knitting funk/rut... knit kids' stuff for charities. They're quick knits and the anonymous act of kindness brings the mojo back!

This is so much fun!

When winding a ball of yarn, I break it if I feel a knot and start a new ball. That way, I don't ever end up mid-row with a knot that snuck up on me.

I have a feeling I'll be thinking about this all night...

Thanks for the linkage hunny! I hope you make CD cause I'm eager to see how you make it your own! Plus you know you can't resist the call of the Black Water Abbey and using up STASH!!!!

My tips:
1- Only two projects on the needles - one large, one small, usually socks. I know knitter's love to start WIP's but it's hard to see progress when you have 3-10 (or more!) projects on the go at the same time. Finish the WIP and start another! Easy, peasy!

2- Lifelines!!! For laceknittng and any knitting where you may have to go back and do some adjusting and don't want to worry about chasing errant stitches! I confess I don't always use em but I *always* wish I had when I needed em :)

3- Photocopies! Sounds simple but even if you own the pattern or you're using one from a book or mag...make a photocopy so you can write your notes down! When I finish the project I store the notes/photocopy with the original pattern in case I ever wish to knit it again.

4- I have a notebook/journal with sections for future projects (and the mag/book they may be located in, if applicable, as well as the yarn I plan to use)
completed projects by month and a diary in which I list start date, progress notes, completion date, recipient and more detailed process notes than I would put on my blog.

This is fun Jody, thanks for thinking of it! I can't wait to read everyones tips!

Oh two more -- and these are lifechanging and therefore MUST be included!!! Spit splicing and the Russian Join! Both brilliant, both invaluable! :)

My best tip is about the stash release. Do not hold onto yarn if you are really not going to knit with it. Release the yarn and let it be loved by someone else. However, do not be guilty about having yarn hang around for a while unknit. You'll find a use for it eventually.

One of the best tips for me has been to highlight whatever size it is you are going to knit in a multi-size pattern. And if it's in a book, make a copy so you can just fold the pattern up with the knitting!

My tip, which I just used on the latest pair of socks:
When I need to hold stitches live, instead of threading it on cotton or other yarn, I use grosgrain ribbon, the cheap poly stuff you can get from any craft store for $1 a spool.

I have yet to meet a yarn that sticks to the stuff, and the stitches don't collapse as easily as they do on crochet cotton. It's easier to thread onto a needle, too.

I second the Russian Join!

The best way I've found for preventing ladders in DPN knitting is to use a 5 needle set-- when you reach the end of Needle 1, set it aside momentarily. Knit 3-5 stitches from Needle 2 onto your active needle. Then pick up the empty needle and finish knitting off of Needle 2 and a few stitches off of needle 3. So, each needle grabs a few stitches from the subsequent needle, and the DPN corners travel around the circumference. No columns of loose stitches!

My tip for keeping those projects moving: take pictures, post to a blog, and write about it! Sometimes when I start feeling a little lukewarm about a project, or get an urge to cast on something new, seeing the work from afar is a great motivator. The thing that looked like a big blue blob in your lap now has a shape and texture. If then you're forced to describe the work, all of a sudden you remember why you chose the yarn and how much you love that clever panel or edging. Combine that with a chorus of knitters who tell you to keep on going, and it's a recipe for success.

Here's a tip.

Don't drink several glasses of wine while knitting lace.

The two don't mix. Trust me. I figured this out tonight!!!

Tip: When using 2 circs to knit socks sometimes I need to transfer a few stitches from one needle to the other one. I have found the best tool for this is the J-shaped cable needle. You can transfer on with one end and transfer off with the other. Or if the stitches need to be held while I knit on the other sock then the upside-down cable needle can act like a temperary stitch holder. I cable without a cable needle but my trusty cable needle stays in my notion bag for this purpose.

Tips I like to use:

* when knitting a sweater in the round, rather than leaving ends and weaving them in later (which always shows for me on the front side, no matter how careful I am about weaving in the ends), I use a russian join. This also means fewer ends to weave in later.

* if you are knitting something in the round that is 300+ stitches, sometimes it is damn near impossible to cast on and join without twisting. If I am having trouble with that, I will knit 2-3 rows flat and THEN join -- it makes it much easier for me to not twist it and then I just have a tiny part to seam up at the edge.

I love Celtic Dreams and hope to knit it after the holidays sometime. Can't wait to see what you decide on!

when casting on or picking up a ton of stitches, i always use stitch markers at every ten stitches to mark how far along i am. this way i never "accidentally" cast-on too many or not enough stitches. also, when picking up stitches (like for a collar that has to be a multiple of 4 for ribbing) it helps to have the stitch counters so you can see how many you need to pick up or how many you have. then if i've picked up a few too many i can mark a weak spot in the seam and k2tog there to even things out bringing me back to my multiple.

also, my biggest help in knitting? post-it notes. i mark on the patterns where i am and use them for note taking or row counting. i don't know what i'd do without them.

When I cast on for socks, I cast on for 50% more stitches than called for, and I knit one, k2tog (or p2tog) across. This gives me an upper edge that never binds.

When I cast on for sweaters, I leave tails for sewing up later, and I wind the tail onto a bread bag tag (the flat plastic kind) I write the needle sizes of the project so if I accidently stop in the middle of the sweater, or borrow the needles, or whatever, I have an attached record.

I keep the last skein of every project together in a box for repairs down the road.

When I graft, I knit an extra row in a contrast cotton, and use that row as a guide for the grafting. This is espcially useful for joining rows of mixed knit and purl stitches.

I never use a slip knot when I cast on (long tail). Instead, I simply twist the yarn into a loop and cast on as usual.

I periodically require stitch markers in abundance. I found a ton of them them cheap. They are the small rubberbands that one uses at the end of africian braids. Mine are florcescent in color and they come in several colors in one bag! The bags run about 2.99 here in Baltimore, but any beauty supply store should have them. Ask around. The are great whether you are doing lace or aran sweaters.

Patty

Here's my knitting tip: when I'm knitting socks that have a 2-4 row pattern repeat I use my stitch marker to keep track of what pattern row I'm on. I leave it one stitch in for row one then move it two stitches in for row 2, 3 stitches in for row 3, etc.

My tip - when picking up stitches for a gusset on socks with a heel flap, pick up an extra gusset stitch on each side of the heel. It helps cut down on the gap.

Here's a tip that I found extremely useful for creating a neat finish when binding off circular knitting - props to Knitty Gritty, where I originally saw this technique. It's a bit difficult to describe, apologies.

Bind off all stitches and draw the tail through the last loop. Thread the yarn on a darning needle and pass it sideways through the first bound-off stitch - if you view the bound-off stitch as an upright V, you'll pass the yarn through the center of the V from right to left. Now pass the yarn back through the center of the last bound-off stitch and weave in the end. This creates one additional bind-off loop, and a bit of creative blocking will hide the beginning-of-round circular jog.

Lots of good tips here! I concur with the tip about drinking - friends don't let friends knit drunk.

Here's the best cast on ever for toe up socks - http://misocrafty.squarespace.com/journal/2006/1/30/turkish-cast-on-tutorial.html.

I also track my stash in a (giant) spreadsheet.

Empty water bottles (the refillable kind you carry on your bike) are a great way to carry sockneedles/DPNs when traveling. No worries about breakage when jamming everything in the suitcase.

To make 1x1 rib a lot more uniform and crisp I do the following:
Circular knitting
Row 1: Knit all knit sts by wrapping the yarn around the needle backwards. Purl as normal.
Row 2 and all rows: Knit in to the back of the knit sts and continue wrapping backwards. Purl as normal

Flat knitting
Row 1: Knit the knit sts the same as in CK. Purl as normal.
Row 2: Knit the knits the same as in CK. Purl into the back of the purl sts to untwist them.

When joining in the round, I transfer the last cast-on stitch onto the left needle, then pull the first CO stitch through that stitch and transfer it to the right needle, place marker and begin knitting. This gets rid of the jog where the join is, and also makes the join more firm so it doesn't separate.

When weaving in ends, go diagonally on the back of the fabric and "split" the stitches from the back. Guaranteed not to show and don't seem to pop out either!

When knitting a pattern from a book or magazine, I make a copy & place in a page protector to take along----saves wear & tear on the original pattern.

Okay, this is the last one....To mark my place on a pattern, I use highlighting tape, from a teaching supply store. It comes in lots of bright colors and is see-through, and it sticks and unsticks a zillion times, and doesn't lift the print! It's in a roll just like scotch-tape---works great!

Some tips:

1) Always buy enough yarn.
2) If working for a chart or a graph, blow it up. Color it in if it helps you.
3) If making socks with 1x1 rib, do 1x1 rib for an inch, purl one row, then 2x2 rib for the same amount. The socks will fold over nicely and also will stay up better.

O, o, don't marry a ridiculously tall man and then let him convince you to knit him a sweater. :)

Seriously, if you can knit it on circulars, do it. It's much better for your back and wrists.

Tips:
1)If you don't "get" how to strand floats for Fair Isle patterns when working in the round, twine the nonworking yarn around the working yarn and knit as you usually would. Just remember to reverse the direction of your twining every few stitches so you don't get your bobbins tangled!
2)There are some relatives that just don't understand that knitting takes time to do. Allow them a few "stupid moments" (my brother just asked me today (!) to knit him a cardigan for Christmas) and then buy them tasteful knitted gifts from Wal-Mart.
3) Knit something for yourself every now and then. And then KEEP that item, instead of giving it as a last-minute gift.
4) Keep a running list of how many items you have knitted. Whether this is how many things you have knitted this year, or how many things you have knitted in your lifetime, it helps to be able to look at it and go "I did all this, and I'm proud!"

My tip is for knitting colourwork in the round. When I'm working on something where there will be an obvious jog in the pattern I try to place that jog at the underarm for a sweater of a side seam for other items. I cast on one extra stitch (two for sweaters) and purl that stitch on every round so the jog gets lost in the "faux seam" that's created by the column of purls. It's not a perfect solution but it tricks the eye just enough to make it less noticeable that the pattern doesn't line up exactly. The faux seams also make round knit sweaters lie flatter when they're folded.

Sorry this is a little late, delurking after thinking about these. I have a couple of things I do--

First, I always keep either the pattern I'm using or a copy of it (if it's from a book or mag) in a page protector. Then I can take a dry-erase pen and mark up the page protector with notes, changes, rows finished, things like that, and just wipe it clean later.

I also try to always make a note when I start a project and when I finish it, in a notebook, with a picture, the ball band of the yarn, and a couple inches of the yarn itself taped to the page. I add in any notes or changes (from my scribbles on the page protector), and thoughts about the yarn. That way, I have a sort of sample card of yarns around, as well as a record of what I've made.

Something else I've done, when knitting in the round, is use a length of a different color yarn as a row marker. As I work up the project, I weave the yarn in and out--maybe back for five rows, forward for five, back for another five, or any number that makes sense on the pattern. Then I can go back and count my rows without a counter (I lose them all the time) and without having to count one at a time. You could also do this with increases and decreases--every time you see the yarn go from one side of the fabric to the other, you know there's a change there, so you can count them easily.

A tip for special-occasion knitting (like Yule, birthdays, etc):

No matter how much time you think you have, or how early you start, you will never be finished. Either the LYS doesn't have what you need in stock at the time you need it, or Real Life interferes.

Start knitting your special occasion stuff at the beginning of the year and intersperse it between things for yourself. I thought I was being "smart" by starting in October...I was wrong. Large extended family to knit for, plus full-time job, equals little knitting time (and a spouse who gets tired of seeing yarn during the marathon sessions).

So yeah. After you finish that Clapotis you've been dying to wear, make a pair of handwarmers for your sister-in-law. Get the foot sizes of all adult family members. Keep the kid socks/mitts for the end of year (because little feet and hands grow quick).

Last, but not least, knit for yourself! If your family is like mine, you'll have orders coming out your yin-yang. I've found that spending a quarter of a year working on projects for everyone ELSE in my family leaves me feeling a little used, somewhat drained, and more than a little resentful. So take time for you :)

Tip: if you're just starting out, hold yourself to only 2 or 3 yarn purchases at the beginning. Unless you are guided by an excited and very experienced knitter, they will likely be unfortunate purchases. Stick to this tip, and your stash after 5 years won't still be primarily acrylic. (I swear, I'm darned if I'm not giving that stuff away this year.)

Tip #2: Collect random (high quality) needle sets at flea markets without worrying which project you're going to use them for. If you must buy a pair, get your size in circular form with the longest length you can find. That way it can be as all-purpose as you need it to be. No need to knit a shawl and a sock on different needles if they don't have to be.

Don't ever knit something for someone unless you are good and sure they will apprechiate it, and that they arn't allergic to wool! (both my mother and my mother in law are!)

I hear stories on forums all the time of knitted gifts given, and then the knitter finds out a year later the person gave it away or trashed it as it didn't fit anymore. You have to realize that once you give it up it's not yours and you can't be mad about it, but you can be more particular about who you give knitted items too!

- When you wind a ball of yarn with a ball-winder or nostepinne, wrap the yarn end coming from the center of the ball around the rolled-up yarn label and tuck the label into the hole in the middle of the ball. The label is less likely to get lost, since it's anchored by the yarn, and when you pull out the label, the yarn end comes with it -- no searching necessary.

a little late to the party, but my BEST tip is to use zip lock bags. quart size for small projects like socks and gallon sise for hats and scarves. The have the XL and XXL now too that are great for stash storage!
Seriously, zip lock bags keep your project clean and contained. You can just grab your baggie and go!